Okoki's White-winged Ducks, and More!

Our next stop is Okoki, famed for its White-winged Ducks––yet another endangered species that finds refuge in Cambodia. We arrive mid-afternoon at this remote site, only about 10 miles from the Laos border. As soon as we pull into the campsite, local guides meet us. They are excited––the White-winged Ducks are there, now!––and that takes precedence over everything.

A bespeckled White-winged Duck at Okoki, Cambodia

(Photos mostly by Narca)

A 10-minute walk along a trail takes us to a blind, and there indeed is the prize. We quietly watch and photograph the ducks. They are alert and aware of us, but not too worried. (The next day, while we again watch the White-winged Ducks from a blind, a pair of Giant Ibis lands in the tree immediately over our heads! That mega-rarity is here, too!)

The faces of our local guides reflect their pleasure in showing us the White-winged Ducks.

White-wings are among the largest of ducks. They are a puzzle. Originally thought to be related to Muscovy Ducks and the dabbling ducks, recent DNA work indicates that they are actually closer to the diving ducks. They are very secretive. Although the Wikipedia account notes that they are known to feed only at night, the ducks that we observed were feeding, as well as loafing, during the day. White-wings are spottily distributed in Southeast Asia, India, and Sumatra. They depend on hollows in trees for nesting, and since this is a big duck, it needs big hollows. Habitat destruction is a major threat to their survival.

A White-winged Duck displays those white wings. 

(Photo by our guide Duong Nara, who was experimenting with our camera)

At Okoki we once again stay in a tented camp, complete with tented bush shower and toilet, and outfitted by the local villagers. We pass a couple of very pleasant days, searching out Green Peafowl and Bar-bellied Pitta, Green Imperial Pigeon and Puff-throated Babbler. Indian Rollers tumble through the sky in courtship rolls, flashing brilliant blue as the sun catches their wings. Tickell's Blue Flycatcher joins the parade of other blue flycatchers.

Okoki's butterflies are outstanding. Here are just a few! I hope to put names to at least some of them, eventually.

A nymphalid, possibly a species of Moduza (known as the Commanders)

This emerald-eyed beauty has strangely-shaped hind wings. It's a pristine individual.

Another jewel-eyed hairstreak whose turquoise wingspots match the eyes.

This beautiful creature reminds me of Helicopis from South America.

This lovely Yellow Moth (surely there's a better name?) finds Rich's well-traveled hat completely irresistible.

The Yellow Moth, Dysphania sagana, is a geometrid moth from Southeast Asia, Sumatra and Borneo.

A few flowers enliven the dry season, including this probable iris relative:

Tmatboey's Treasured Ibis

Tmatboey is a small village set in deciduous dipterocarp forest in the center of Cambodia's Northern Plains. It has the distinction of being home to two highly endangered ibis, the Giant and the White-shouldered. Both birds have suffered precipitous population declines in the past half-century, and both are finding refuge and breeding success in Tmatboey.

The primary threat to Giant Ibis is disturbance of critical wetlands and conversion of their habitat to agriculture. Giant Ibis were once associated with wild ungulates, and today they depend upon grazing by domestic livestock such as Water Buffalo to maintain their short-sward grassland habitat and muddy edges to waterholes.

Water Buffalo enjoy a good wallow in the mud.

(Photos by Narca)

We hike in before dawn to a vantage point for seeing from a distance a known roost of Giant Ibis. Soon after daybreak, the ibis in view begins to preen and call, then flies off to forage. Later in the morning we encounter a couple more, as they forage at the edge of a wetland. This photo is of a distant individual, but at least conveys an impression of the huge, shy, red-eyed bird.

Giant Ibis, through a telescope

Dusk at Tmatboey, with a new moon tangled in the tree branches.

Dusk is a good time to see White-shouldered Ibis, as they move to roost trees. White-shouldereds were once widespread from Malaysia to China, but now occur only as a relict population of perhaps as few as 20 individuals in Borneo and the small population in Cambodia. It is good to see them prospering at Tmatboey.

White-shouldered Ibis. Low light conditions make photography difficult!

A program to protect the ibis nests rewards the local farmers who discover the nests, employs rangers from the village, and employs two staff from Wildlife Conservation Society to monitor the nests and to confirm successful fledging. 70% of the program's funds go directly to the villagers. In a region where family incomes average $350 a year, the money from conservation is a substantial help.

White-shouldered Ibis fly to their evening roost.

Stay Tuned: Cambodia!

When there's a long break in my blog posts, you can bet I'm on the road. We have just returned from nearly a month and a half in Southeast Asia––Cambodia, Thailand, and Singapore––and is there ever a lot to report!

Here is a quick preview of one of Cambodia's many jewels: Crested Treeswift. It is related to swifts and to hummingbirds. Late in the evening, the treeswifts were gathering on perches at Tmatboey, a site famed for its Giant Ibis and White-shouldered Ibis; both are critically endangered species. But we'll get to them...!

Enjoy!

Crested Treeswift, Hemiprocne coronata (Photo by Narca)