Giant Kingbirds!

After watching day break over the city of Camagüey (home town for our Cuban guide Ray), our merry band from New Mexico Ornithological Society sets out for Finca La Belén in the Sierra de Najasa.

Dawn over Camagüey from the roof of our hotel (Photo by Narca)

La Belén is a protected holding where ranching and ecotourism converge. Here we are seeking the Giant Kingbird... and anything else that crosses our path. One of the first birds we run across is a Cuban Pygmy-Owl. We've found this species throughout the trip: what a treat that has been!

Cuban Pygmy-Owl (Photo by Narca)

Pretty soon the cry comes––a Giant Kingbird has been found! It is actually slightly smaller than southern Arizona's Thick-billed Kingbird, but we'll keep that between us. Their bills are similarly enormous––look at the stoutness here! And compare that to the more slender bill of the Loggerhead Kingbird below. The Giant and Loggerhead Kingbirds are closely related and occur here in the same habitat. The Giant, however, is endangered, while the Loggerhead is abundant. Reasons for the Giant Kingbird's decline are not known, although the loss of large trees for nesting is a likely factor.

Giant Kingbird (Photo by Narca)

Loggerhead Kingbird (Photo by Jerry Oldenettel)

The rest of the morning is relaxed. Our time in Cuba is drawing to a close, and we are savoring the species that come our way. Today a Gundlach's Hawk favors us––among the best views of the trip, although the flying raptor doesn't give me a chance for a photo. Cuban Green Woodpeckers and a Red-legged Thrush are among the birds we'll miss when we leave!

Cuban Green Woodpecker (Photo by Jerry Oldenettel)

Red-legged Thrush (Photo by Jerry Oldenettel)

Butterflies at La Belen are among the best we've seen on the trip.

Cuban Daggerwing, Marpesia eleuchea (Photo by Jerry Oldenettel)

Malachite butterfly, Siproeta stelenes (Photo by Narca)

Around us, the work of the ranch continues, and after an excellent lunch, Janet and Ray even find a pony to ride.

Oxen pull a laden farm conveyance (Photo by Narca)

Janet finds a new friend (Photo by Narca)

We have one more destination today, the Sierra de Cubitas, where we will search for Oriente Warblers, the last of Cuba's three species of endemic wood warblers. So we don't linger long after lunch, as inviting and comfortable as Finca La Belén is!

Cuba's Far West

Daybreak at María la Gorda (Photos by Narca)

We set out for María la Gorda at the extreme western tip of Cuba. It's an all-day drive, and our unflinching NMOS leader Dave Krueper (sustained by the whole gang) is not going to leave any Cattle Egret or Smooth-billed Ani uncounted. Yes, this is fun, but I am ready for those endemics!

Along the way, we pass endemic Barrigon ("Big Belly") Palms. 

Giraldo Alayon, our very fine Cuban guide, talks to us about Cuba's geology and habitats as we travel––of the karstic (limestone) soils and the high level of endemism. Giraldo is a birder (and a very fine dancer!), but his more serious profession is arachnologist––a spider man.

In 1986 Giraldo spotted an Ivory-billed Woodpecker in eastern Cuba, igniting excitement that the species survived. Researchers found three Ivory-bills in that area, but in recent years biologists seeking Ivory-bills have been chasing evanescent rumors in Cuba. Hope has faded, but among Cuban biologists it hasn't died entirely.

Ivory-billed Woodpeckers (Acrylic painting by Narca)

From Ray (Raydalie Pérez O'Farrill), our marvelous Cuban logistics-and-cultural guide, we learn of Vitamin R (rum). Only one day into the trip, spirits are high and joking is rampant.

After a few birding stops, we arrive at María la Gorda, where palms overhang the breaking surf and a Cuban Black-Hawk perches above mangroves. It's good to land!

Jerry Oldenettel, Jim Shiflett, Janet Ruth and Bruce Neville––relaxing!

Our cabaña at María la Gorda

Butterflies like this White Peacock enliven the path to the bungalows.

The hotel grounds are rich in Cuban Orioles, Cuban Pygmy-Owls, Cuban Bullfinches... I think we've found those endemics!

Cuban Black-Hawk is a recent split from Common Black-Hawk.

West Indian Woodpecker

Cuban Pygmy-Owl

Cuban Bullfinch

As I drift off to sleep, sea breezes are stirring, and waves lap at the shore, promising great adventure ahead.